The other day I read the really intriguing article in Decanter called ‘Terroir and Taste’. The question it posed was “do the rocks and stones in a vineyard actually matter?”, and the pretty categorical conclusion was ‘no’. In fact it went as far as saying that “whatever the notes say, we can’t taste ‘minerals’ in wine”.
It left me wondering where it leaves the ‘flint’ in Chablis, the ‘volcanic minerals’ in Etna wines, and the ‘chalky minerality’ in an English fizz from the South Downs. There are so many notes and descriptions telling us about how the vine roots pick up minerals from the soil that then leave an imprint in the wine. Unless I read the article wrongly, the writer, Alex Maltman (who is a geologist and an Earth Scientist, I believe), pretty much debunks that notion. But we do taste these flavours, right…?
Did anyone else read this article? What were your thoughts?