In a fine mystery case ‘beyond sell-by-date’ I had a couple of fascinating bottles: 1998 Clos des Papes, and I think an old Hermitage. Both were excellent, and full of apricot, gorse, hawthorn, but no hazelnuts.
My question, is how come these wines age so well ? there are plenty of other high acidity / high aromatic whites which do not. What should I look out for to snap a few up at auction, where the prices seem very low.
Viognier/Condrieu are indeed not reputed for their longevity contrary to white hermitage (marsanne/roussanne blend with usually high proportion of marsanne - typically 80/20)
looking at my notes it seems most of the well aged Rhones whites I have enjoyed have been Marsanne/Rousanne blends. But bear in mind these are whites we are talking about and that’s an area I’m definitely not expert in!
Jancis wrote an article on this a couple of years ago. She spoke to some of the quality producers (from memory Chave, Beaucastel?) and their view was to either drink young to get the fruit (3-5 years) or wait to get the complexity you are talking about (12-15 years+). But that quite of few of these wines can go through a mid life muted phase where you don’t get the best of either world.
Not mentioned by her, but I guess like any rule of thumb this is a general sense of wine development, but individual wines and vintages may vary!