This offering from Dönnhoff last night, with smoked mackerel and peas risotto:
Roxheimer Höllenpfad Dry Riesling, Dönnhoff 2019
An EP purchase, and goodness gracious! what a beautiful Riesling this is… Rather ironic that the vineyard is called Höllenpfad (path to Hell) – if this is hell, then who needs heaven?
A complex nose showed just a whiff of kerosene, but mostly was a cornucopia of fruit – started in the orchard, with ripe Golden Delicious apples and, but then there was some peach and lemons and possibly even a touch of melon. All were wrapped up in delicate linden blossom and – to my nose, at least – the floral sweetness of gorse.
Similar gorgeousness on the palate – a lovely texture, rounded and hugging of the palate, but with assertive minerality, and a clean-as-a-whistle overall feel. Well defined fruit – ripe orchard and peaches, with a twist of lime were accompanied by a floral background note and a twist of delicate spice. A thrilling wine, that managed to excite even my Riesling-agnostic husband
This evening, we’re making a chilindrón stew from the recent 1874 magazine, though we’re using mixed game rather than wild boar. To drink, this Grand Reserva Rioja:
El Piadoso Rioja Gran Reserva 2014
A nice coincidence – I bought this recently in Waitrose because it was reduced and I remembered enjoying a previous iteration of it, so was pleased to see it reviewed favourably in this month’s Decanter. Reviews on the Waitrose site, however, are decidedly split between 5 and 1 star… must be a whole batch of faulty bottles, or this style of GR didn’t appeal to some, as it certainly is on the lighter side of things.
There is freshness and lightness about this wine which I personally really enjoy, especially as the oak treatment here seems very balanced and not stifling of the ripe and luscious fruit. But on the other hand, it’s so easy drinking you almost wonder where is the complexity? – not much tertiary development we could discern on first glass, though the evening is young.
The nose has notes of spiced plums, blackcurrants and mulberries with a nice toasty oak, mellow vanilla and a whiff of sweet tobacco. Medium bodied on the palate – there’s lovely fruit here: plums, ripe hedgerow berries and cherries, with toasted coconut and gentle vanilla, and a dash of liquorice and exotic spices. Good acidity makes this almost quaffable, and finish is medium and spicy.
It’s not a wine to write poetry about, but for the £11.99 we paid it is thoroughly enjoyable and an immensely drinkable drop!
Happy weekend, one and all