We seem to be on a nice roll of lovely wines at the moment. I’m sure one will disappoint sooner or later - but thankfully, not this evening:
… a delicious Rotgipfler from a very consistent producer - Heinrich Hartl III (were there two of them before him? Who knows!).
In my humble opinion, Rotgipfler (an offspring of Roter Veltliner and Traminer) is one of the best white varietals in Austria - yet still seems to be a bit of a secret. As far as I know it’s only grown in the Thermenregion - happy to be corrected- and it usually produces quite ‘beefy’ wines for a white grape, with tropical and citrus fruit flavours, good minerality and a broad mouthfeel.
This one is a very good example, and is true to type. Pale straw in the glass, the nose has notes of quince, very delicate blossom as well as riper more exotic fruit (guava, pineapple). On the palate, the initial hit is of tropical fruit as well as ripe pears and a honeyed back note, then it moves on to citrus notes and spice, especially on the finish. It’s rounded, medium bodied and creamy, but with zest and pepperiness which keep it balanced and fresh. Rotgipfler always reminds me a little of white Rhone blends in terms of its flavour and texture, so might appeal to people who like these wines. Such a lovely lovely wine and well done to Waitrose for listing something rather obscure, but so enjoyable!
Black cod on the menu, which should work nicely with the wine - or so we hope.