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Visiting Burgundy


#1

Hi everyone!

I have a week in Burgundy in early August. Can anyone recommend domaines who are are happy to receive visitors, with or without appointment? I’m particularly interested in visiting domaines in some of the lesser villages such as Morey St Denis, Marsannay, Fixin, Rully etc, partly because I can’t afford the more expensive villages, but also because there are some really great wines now being made in these lesser villages (Sylvain Pataille in Marsannay being one, though I don’t think he takes visitors!).

Any other villages I should consider too in addition to the above?


#2

I’d strongly suggest you are doing the right thing in planning ahead. On previous visits to Burgundy I was a little surprised for it to be the norm to charge for tastings and some of them are quite expensive. I’m sure some planning and time off the beaten track will reap its rewards

As an exceptional (paid) experience, visiting Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet is worth splashing out for. You can have a tasting lunch or dinner, vineyard tour, winery tour, stay overnight or do the lot! We visited a couple of days after the Brexit vote so Olivier was very happy to pull our legs about that

For a more diverse experience the Marche du Vin in Beaune offer a tasting tour of several different producers (with seemingly a bias towards Ch de Mersault), again for a fee. You could argue it is set up for the tourist but we found it good fun

Chablis is well worth a stop on the way down. From memory Fevre and Pinson offered tastings without charge


#3

Hi Ben

Another thing you might consider doing (though August is getting close) is to buy a copy of the Hachette Guide des Vins. A substantial number of domaines are in there, by appellation, with their contact details, but more importantly, whether they do visits, tasting or sales from the property. Or combinations thereof. Plus it shows which ones are willing to take unplanned visits, useful to know if some arrangement falls through. Though in my experience that doesn’t mean anyone will actually be there on the day if some emergency has dragged them off elsewhere.


#4

There is a list of contacts and info for various regions in the link below which might be handy!


#5

Wow! I never knew this page existed!! Have obviously not delved deep enough into TWS website! Thank you - will take a look.


#6

If you are planning on travelling as far south as the Macon area then Mallory and Benjamin Talmard in Uchizy worth a visit. TWS sell their wine (whites only) and they are both delicious and cheap
https://cave-talmard.com/contact

Just turn up for free tasting during their opening hours as listed and fill up the boot! They are very friendly.


Wineries near Mâcon
#7

We have a huge amount of really good content on the site, its a shame that quite a bit seems buried - we are currently working on making it more accessible though :slight_smile:


#8

I too am in the Burgundy area this summer, but I have confession to make …

I don’t really want to visit lots of wineries.

I’m on a family holiday. I do not want to drag the whole family (wife and two kids <13) to lots of wineries, and going alone means leaving them alone and driving myself. Not nearly as much fun.

I do want to taste lots of nice wines and potentially buy a few, even direct from the domaines but without necessarily spending 2+ hours on visits to cellars or vineyards. (If I could have a social visit with the winemaker that is another story, but rarely on offer).

So, my question is slightly different:

Where are the places to go in Burgundy to taste (not just drink) lots of different wines from the area to help decide which wines to buy?

Is there an equivalent of the “regional wine tasting room” that many other places have?


#9

@robert_mcintosh I’ll be there in one week’s time, and have the same family dilemma as you. I’m thinking about visiting one or two of the larger independent caves or bigger negociants. For example…

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g187109-d10593448-Reviews-Nuiton_Beaunoy_Cave_des_Hautes_Cotes-Beaune_Cote_d_Or_Bourgogne_Franche_Comte.html


#10

Great! You can do the advance research :slight_smile:


#11

la P’tite Cave in Beaune looks like a tourist trap, with a board outside, but had a good range, and seems to adjust what it offers to taste to your level of interest/expertise. I just checked, and it still gets (a few) good reviews on trip adviser, so it presumably still exists. At least it’s in the centre of Beaune so if you are staying there you can taste without driving.


#12

This place is certainly worth considering. We’ve visited twice and would consider going again next time we’re in the area


#13

@robert_mcintosh
Chablis is a nice place to take your family.
There are a few places in the centre where you can walk in and taste.
Also nice places to eat.
It’s where I first tasted Andouillette.


#14

And that’s a positive recommendation? :wink:

As it happens, I had my first in Troyes since years ago.

I still recovering from the experience :wink:


#15

I’ve just left Burgundy today, but one word of warning … I visited Nuiton Beaunoy and I would NOT recommend it . The wines tasted were NOT of the standard of individual producers. I like @robert_mcintosh, am on a family holiday and have only taken a little time out to visit wineries or degustation houses hoping to taste a lot in a short space of time and Nuiton Beaunoy was suggested to us by friends in Dijon. I was solely disappointed . The best of the wines tasted was a Morey -Saint-D but ALL of the wines tasted had this saline backbone which almost tasted diluted :woman_facepalming:t3:! It was not pleasant ! However if you are planning on heading to Marsannay you will need to plan in advance, I have a list of all producers and contacts which I’ll try an share tomorrow. The only one that’s open most of the time is Fougeray de Beauclair. I bought some fixin , Marsannay Rosé and a few mixed bottles of others . Ask for Valentin the son , very helpfully. Last year visited Olivier Guyot in Marsannay too and you can find him on FB so message directly for an appointment. They probably charge about €10 but that’s waived if you purchase. Valentin recommended contacting Corine at Domaine guillemard clerc
(Puligny Montrachet) for some excellent wine and tasting :wink:.


#16

Also worth noting that the Chateau de Marsannay also requires appointments …


#17


Do NOT miss this total gem in Beaune …! It’s fantastic ! :wink:


#18

For me, that’s a sort of Proustian experience, but not in a good way…and this is from someone who generally eats any part of almost any animal…

I do agree that Chablis is a nice place to take the family. I have memories of walking above the Grand Cru vineyards in mid April about 14 years ago, with all the little fires being readied to keep the frost at bay.


#19

Might be a bit late to the party…but Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet has a ‘shop’, ‘Caveau Napoleon’ in Fixin. Excellent grower and last year they had Joliet’s 1er Cru Fixin on sale as well.


#20

@Shurst. They are one of my favourite producers. Amélie is making absolutely beautiful wines. Purchased some of her Fixin en primeur earlier this year. Unfortunately (and I did almost cry into my wine glass when I read this) they are closed for the first two weeks of August.