Arneis has always been a difficult wine to search out, for several reasons it almost disappeared, a propensity to desease and lack of interest, but it did survive alongside the Barolo vineyards in NW Italy.
For my part I came across it about 25 years ago, I have no recollection of the producer or year, but the bottle matched the description of the grape in that is was a fruity dry wine with apple pear and peach flavours and a nutty almost almond like like undertone, the nutty flavour I found out later develops with age, not that Arneis is meant to be kept.
That was it for awhile as one just didn’t see the grape for sale, a couple did come along but were nowhere near the quality of that initial introduction.
Some years past and on one of our frequent Italian excursions we alighted in Piedmont and during trawling for wine, Barolo, came across Arneis again, this time from two noted producers Cerreto and Giacosa.
They were both consumed soon after return, and hope of finally finding Arneis in the same category as my initial purchase was dashed as both were underwhelming, the Cerreto one had the appearance of water and had not much more taste and the Giacosa version had better colour but not much more flavour, both hugely disappointing and from such “great” producers.
Since that time early 2000s the grape has hardly surfaced and my desire for the real thing has abated after the disaster of last time, where are you Arneis, there must be a good bottle!