There have been many studies into the way wine behaves at altitude or rather how we change and alter our perception of what we are drinking.
In honesty my long haul days are long gone but the drinking of wine was more limited until recently though that doesn’t alter the way we react at altitude.
I have to admit that anything goes to a degree on the plane I find it difficult to pay for good wine on a plane that I could not appreciate or snjoy, a cheap decent wine does the job, you are fighting a natural phenomenom and the label will make little difference, either drink it in the lounge before take off or wait till arrival.
The airlines are spending a lot of money employing MWs and others for selecting wines for their flights, yet this is pure PR if you can’t really appreciate the wine in what is a strange environment why spend on expensive wines, everyone is different but I always found that wine sort of become much the same on a plane, others may well find the experience different.
I am old enough to remember flying on a Boeing Stratocruiser with an upstairs lounge, it certainly helped though the choice of wine then was almost non existent, still the lounge and a G&T was good