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Milan/Parma Travel Advice - vinous tips


#1

Shortly going for a long weekend to Milan (2 1/2 days) and Parma (1 day) punctuated by a rugby game

Does anyone have any wine/food/must see/do tips for either place please

Many thanks
Alex


#2

OK, its 20 years since I was last in Milan - however I dont imagine it’s changed much. Best to drink the local wines, mostly unknown in the UK. And of course Moretti beer which isn’t local - but you are going to the Rugby :grinning:.

Wine: Dolcetta D’alba is lovely, especially with steak tartare - for some reason it tastes much better there than here. High end Barolo’s & Chainti are everywhere and range from more than you want to spend, to eye-wateringly expensive, so I would avoid unless someone else is paying. My tip (Nebbiolo) would be Valtellina Superiore as a Reserva cru (Grumello – Inferno – Sassella – Valgella – Maroggia) - rare in the uk / none in TWS, yet when good it’s VERY good indeed.

Watch out for the pick-pockets around the Duomo, they are very active and surprisingly easy to spot. The restaurants in the same area are good, and (used to be) reasonably priced. Window shopping in the high-end fashion shops is something else.

The central train station is stupendous (sorry, cant think of a better word - you will see what I mean if you visit it) - Mussolini’s triumphalism set in stone. Amazing architecture.

Dont forget to pack a ripe gorgonzola in your hand baggage for the flight home.


#3

Are we allowed to import cheese from Europe. Honey is a no-no but what about cheese?


#4

Honey and cheese are both fine from the EU. Until the end of the year, anyway. After that, who knows?


#5

Gorgonzola… I was joking - its aroma starts off quite pleasant but after a day in a warm flight bag it can be quite impressive!


#6

Vacuum pack? Maybe not gorgonzola, but given that the trip includes Parma, some ham and parmesan to come home would certainly be on my agenda!


#7

OK… lets get pedantic. Parmesan is perhaps not from Lombardy, so why bother bringing it back from Milan? especially when there is fantastic local produce to bring back which you just cant get at home.

Strange champagne cork shaped doughnut things in an alcoholic syrup. Never seen them anywhere else.

I have a bone to pick with TWS: ZERO wines from Lombardy on the website … doesn’t even feature in the regional filter. what about: Oltrepò Pavese, Valtellina Superiore, Sforzato di Valtellina, - these are not marginal, but significant wine from a major European area. Yet we have dozens of near identical Barolo and Chianti.


#8

Agree about local food. But parmesan does come from Parma, which was my point :wink:


#9

Last year my wife and I enjoyed several meals in Parma but one that was very memorable for wine was lunch at Enoteca La Barrique.
Fairly simple food choices but one eats within a wine shop and has the choice of any bottle on the shelves to accompany the food.


#10

You got my vote! :grinning:


#11

Valtelina Superiore!

I’d love for it to be more easily available. I had an amazing Infernalle recently from Passione Vino. The weirder Italian wines in general are amazing/hard to get. Speaking to the staff at aforementioned Passione Vino and she mentioned that as soon as the suppliers find out they’re exporting to the UK the price goes up substantially, often to a greater price than you’d pay in a shop in Italy.


#12

I recently bought a bunch of Valtellina from Tannico - get it while you can, as I think technically you are buying and importing from Italy when you deal with them. They also have a bunch of other interesting Italian wine, e.g. some southern roses that Jancis Robinson recommended recently.


#13

I swear I am not a secret agent for Alpine Wine, but they also sell a few Valtellina wines.


#14

Not much of a secret any more!


#15

I’m rubbish at keeping wine secrets… :grinning:


#16

One of the restaurants that I use regularly in Milan is the Trattoria Milanese at via Santa Marta 11.
They have a nice selection of local wines that include several from Valtellina, but one needs to ask for the local list as they are not all on the main wine list. It is an A5 piece of paper and I always order wine from that list.


#17

Thanks everyone for the Tips!

We had a great time

Valtellina was a hit and pretty easy to find.

Enoteca la barrique in Parma was great for a pre-rugby lunch! thank you

We recommend having a look at the wine shop on via solferino, enoteca cotti and also the modern bar opposite was great for an aperitif/almost a free meal/people watching!

The cafeteria (actually high end restaurant) at the Villa Necchi Campiglio was well worth a visit if you are in the area! Lunch would be very good!

We brought back a kilo of 56month parmesan vaccum packed with ryanair handbaggage successfully!

Thanks everyone for the tips again

Alex