Two highly rated and (for different reasons) disappointing wines
Jacob’s Creek Steingarten 2005
OK, so I just don’t like Oz Riesling. Nothing wrong with this at all, and I guess it’s at its peak (unlike the 2007s I’ve had). Just not much fun, is it? A decidedly unappealing combination of lime cordial and somewhat shrill austerity with a touch of kerosene. What on earth is the point of Oz Riesling? No thanks.
Viña Tondonia Reserva 1999
Yep, I am forced to admit after many years following this producer (fortunately most of those before it became achingly fashionable and even more achingly overpriced) that I think Tondo is one of the most consistently disappointing wines I have ever thrown my cash at. The 2001 is a shocker which never fails to disappoint, which is hard to believe given what a good year it is in the region, and now this one too fails to deliver. Yes, it works better with food than it does on its own, not surprisingly given its piercing acidity. It may well have subtlety and some vaguely interesting aromatic stuff going on. But is it fun to drink? You bet it isn’t. My partner even described it as “thin and mean”, which is perhaps a touch harsh, but I know what she means. Give me Ardanza (or maybe even better Imperial?) any day. Another wine that appeals more to the intellect than to the pleasure receptors. Yawn. Really the only wine I’d buy from this address these days is the Gravonia.
Both less enjoyable than the Manenti Cerasuolo di Vittoria I picked up (in an attempt to venture out from my COS/Occhipinti comfort zone) at Catania airport while waiting for Etna to calm down.