A couple of midweek wines this week,
Both white burgundies. From the right first - this is a society wine and is indeed still listed. Very nicely balanced. This has seen oak, but the grower has not allowed the oak to take over, but form part of the blend. Quite a gentle wine, not one that shoulder-barges its way into your meal. Recommended.
Now for the second one. In case you have trouble with the label, it’s 1990 St Aubin, Les Frionnes by Raoul Clerget. A 1990 minor white burgundy? Madness, surely? Well, no. A couple of years ago, I bought at auction a case of a dozen 1990 white chardonnays - 10 were St. Aubins from assorted growers/negociants. The remaining two were from California. This is the last bottle of that case - all were fine and not a single one was oxidised. Even factoring in the buyer’s commission, they came to about £3.90 a bottle. But before you start posting “jammy b****r” comments, just remember the other cases not mentioned which had wines that were shot in them!
I only mention all this, because it is illustrative of how far white burgundy has sunk. No doubt a combination of over-late picking, rubbishy corks, low SO2 levels plus other things that led to the disaster of premox in the mid 1990s. That, plus an unhealthy dose of producer arrogance.
Oh yes - it was delicious! Perhaps a little on the heavy side, no doubt reflecting the vintage, but with that concentration of flavour that bottle-aging brings. A great end to a lovely summer’s day with a meal outside.