The article is a good rant.
I remember when ‘terroir’ started being used in wine talk. There’s a reason the word is French. It’s because the French wine industry became alarmed at the popularity and quality of New World wines sold by grape variety, especially as these grape varieties came from France.
Others could grow ‘their’ varieties and make good wines but, said the French, what made French wines unique was their terroir. Anyone could make Chardonnay but what made Burgundy special and unique was its terroir.
Wine is made from grapes, and grape grow in the ground, affected by what is in the ground, its aspect and weather.
So, IMO, terroir is a factor.
But only one of a whole load of factors, including the choice of rootstock, clone, how vine is cultivated, when it’s harvested, its treatment in the winery including choice of yeast, fermentation time, aging.
I think the viticulturist and especially, winemaker are more important in the final wine than terroir.