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Beaujolais musings

In reponse to @GuidoD’s request for my Beaujolais musings we opened a 2104 Thibault Liger-Belair Moulin à Vent “Les Rouchaux” I didn’t know whether to add this to a weekday drinking thread or start a Beaujolais thread.
Is cru Beaujolais worthy of a thread? With this wine the answer is yes. There are other makers of top notch cru such as Marcel Lapierre, Julien Sanier, Guy Breton and others. They too are worthy of a thread.
Assessing this Moulin à Vent, it comes from a parcel in the vineyard in the commune of "Romanèche-Thorins. Soil is 2 mtrs clay sand and silt so there is good drainage and water holding capacity.
Moulon à Vent is probably the most atypical Beaujolais cru and this wine is very high quality.
Pale ruby bordering on garnet. Spicy, vanilla and black fruit nose, but palate is magnificent. Elegant, but concentrated, fine tannins, ripe primary flavours but touches of tertiary: savoury, spice, pepper, game and mushroom. But after an hour the red fruit came to the front. This is a wine that is always evolving in the glass.

3 week fermentation with light extraction. 15 months in foudre. It does have a Burgundian feel to it but for about £27 it is class all the way.
Liger-Belair is a traditional Burgundian family and if I were to be pushed this wine reminds me of Nuits st Georges. Goes well with a grilled pork chop.

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That’s the conundrum. At one end of the scale we have Burgundy lookalikes (Jadot BJL in particular) and at the other end of the scale, purple bubblegum fruit-juice. There isn’t an ideal BJL which all others strive to emulate - it comes down to personal taste.

Compare this to Bordeaux - where all agree that the more you spend, the better the bottle. The pinnacles of excellence are unaffordable to you and I.

This is what make Beaujolais fascinating for me, there is no perfection decided by others with a price tag to match. In fact I prefer the mid priced cru’s which seem to have more joy in them. But (happily) horses for courses.

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This. For me joy is what Beaujolais is all about.

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There’s something to be said both for the Burgundian top end wines and some of the more simple examples as long as they are well made. I drink a lot of Côte de Brouilly and love this producer in particular:

Not a serious and age worthy as some other crus but so delicious.

This is really good punchy simple Gamay:

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Ah the perfect place for a question I’ve been meaning to ask for while, my grandfather found this in his depleting collection of wines. It was from a trip he had to Beaujolais quite a few years ago. Has anyone tried any of this producers fleurie? What is the chances of this being drinkable? It has been kept well so shouldn’t be affected by that. If it is drinkable what would the choice of food pairing be? Would love to hear your opinions as can’t find a lot about it online.

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The producer’s website doesn’t give much away - Fleurie Vieille Vignes Fût de Chêne . The Vielles Vignes cuvee is raised for 36 months in oak, so intended to last for longer - although 12 years might be on the limit, and perfect. I would expect a fine sediment so stand the bottle upright for a week or so before opening (and have a standby of something else in reserve) - might have an orange rim and plenty of secondary flavours - fig, garrigue, fine oak etc.

Parker rates 2009 as ‘extraordinary’ and the best year for BJL out of the last 50 - your grandfather picked a good year.

Last time I had a very old Beaujolais, it was served with duck breast, frites, green salad - very simple - and memorable. I think you are in for a treat.

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I think so too given the wine has spent extended ageing in oak and has a higher level of concentration from the vielles vignes.
Sometimes we forget Fleurie can age beautifully when in the right hands, all we have to do is look at the wines from Foillard or Clos de le Roilette . Please let us know what it’s like @Tomh

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I think I must have bored people with my enthusiasm for this beautiful wine before:

… which was brought by the lovely @danchaq to a members’ BYOB (remember those?). It was my wine of the evening. A real show stopper! :star_struck:

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This is really interesting. I’ve had a few Beauregard wines - the Julienas a few years ago, and a few others. I hate them. I found them really heavy, alcoholic, like a lump hammer on my senses. It may well be me and not a good palate or it may be just the styles we like.

Whereas, the Domaine du Moulin d’Eole Moulin a Vent I found revelatory. I found it interesting, engaging, always with something to surprise. But the sediment! Wow! Needs decanting!

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Joy was my initial reaction, but when I sat back and thought about it I realised that I’ve had a few more Serious Beaujolais that really made me turn my head as well.

Maybe there’s something around expectations? Like for £15 you can get a wine that has interest but is also quaffable and goes well with food. Or for another tenner things really kick up a notch. It’s no longer a place that’s quite cheap but nor do you need to spend a fortune. And more often than not these days you get something made well.

I also think there’s variety, from the traditional MOR food-friendly sorts of wines, to a movement of ‘natural’ / minimal intervention experimentalists to producers really trying for more age-worthy fine wines.

And they age well.

It does also help I tend to lighter reds, but you may as well get me an I <3 Bojo teeshirt :laughing:

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Can I recommend Jefford’s ‘The New France’ chapter on Beaujolais - well worth reading, some interesting developments happening & winemaker’s to follow.

Totally agree with Grimpeur (except I like Beauregard mostly) - I find over-extracted BJL to be not very… well not very Beaujolais like. This doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy them though !

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Et voila…

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Couldn’t come sooner…! :scream:

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Please!

I really want one!

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not that one :wink:

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When I started this thread the ubiquitous Boris Johnson was furthest from my mind. “Moving swiftly on” as they say:
What I have acquired to taste is
Julien Sunier 2019 Fleurie
Jean Foillard 2019 Morgon
Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2019
Domaine Bonne Tonne Morgon les Charmes 2016
Jean Claude Lapalu Brouilly 2019.
I already have Some Chiroubles and Fleurie from Domaine Grosse Pierre
I may be a Louis Jadot/Georges DuBoeuf to compare styles
More anon

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Her pale ruby pullover is clearly “carbonic maceration” material

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I wonder what a semi-carbonic maceration pullover would look like…? :thinking:

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